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The City of Madurai on the occasion of the Pongal festival.

I usually visit the city of Madurai a lot as it is my mom’s hometown but this particular visit was different as I went on the occasion of Pongal. For covering the occasion, we went one-day before so that we can rest in the city and cover everything. Our Teja express train was puffing up for a start at 6:00 am. The journey in Teja express was different as was a new train launched which is much speedier than the normal train and with that, this was also my first time for me to travel on this train. The train has no sleeping type of seats and only had seaters but it reaches the destination faster than normal trains. On the train, I was having a lot of fun like listening to “on purpose with Jay Shetty’s” podcast on Spotify, reading watchmen comics on Kindle, chit-chatting with my parents, eating the tasty snacks ordered, and seeing the view through the window.

Teja Express train waiting at Chennai Central railway station.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

After arriving at the Madurai railway station at 12:00 am, we directly went to my grandparent’s house and rested for some time. After a quick rest, I started exploring the way the city prepares for the occasion of Pongal. I saw shops selling pots for cooking Pongal in huge numbers, sugarcanes in the road as immediate shops with vehicles carrying it market filled with crowds, devotees waiting to see the Goddess Meenakshi Amman at its temple and went back to home after watching all of these.

Pots for Pongal are being decorated and sold in Madurai. PC: Vijaya Shankar O

Surgancanes are sold on the road at Madurai. PC: Vijaya Shankar O

A woman arranging Kooram poo for sale at Madurai. PC: Vijaya Shankar O

On the next day, I woke up early and started to cover the events of Pongal. As the traditions say, I did the oil bath and went to a nearby temple where I saw the Poosari (priest) making Pongal for the devotees in the very early morning of 5 am. Covering that and getting a blessing from God, I traveled back and, on the way, I saw a family stewing Pongal in a small pot near the market outside their home. Then, we took an auto to the historic Meenakshi Amman temple which is one of the oldest temples built between the years 1623 and 1655 located on the southern bank of the Vaigai River. The temple has a wonderful architecture that is known to many people globally and is primarily dedicated to the goddess Parvati, known as Meenakshi, and her spouse, Shiva. Its most striking feature is the exquisite façade, which has highly minute details with great art pieces incorporated in its walls and pillars. The temple’s complex is made in accordance to Shilpa Shastra having 14 gateways towers (Gopurams), golden ‘vimanas’, holy sanctums, and shines dedicated to the goddess.

I was roaming around the streets of Meenakshi Amman Temple where I saw an old woman selling Koorai poo, a priest taking the machete with a broken coconut inside the temple, a lot of devotees traveling to a destination in a yellowish dress. After seeing all these, we went to Sholavandan on hearing the news that they are celebrated the Pongal festival in a much more grandeur way. So, for us, traveling from Palanganatham to Solavandan which both located in Madurai was just around 1 hr. and when we reached the temple, nothing has begun yet.

A group of women is preparing pongal at a temple in Sholavandan, Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

The Pongal Kolam is being put across the temple's tiles.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

I was actually hoping that they don’t start because I was about to cover the event. The people around the temple started their work of putting Kolam in the walkway, preparing to set up the stage and lights for cultural programs, arranging necessities for the Pongal, and around 3 hrs., everything was happening all quickly. The dancers and foreigners arrived, kolam was done, Pongal was getting prepared and the audience was set for the show to begun.

The Pongal is being distributed in large number numbers to the people.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

Soon after Pongal was done, the folk dancers were entering into the temple with Nadaswaram and Melan hitting across the borders of the temple. They stepped onto the stage and started to perform various folk dances like Bommalattam, Poikkal Kudarai aattam, Karakattam, Thappaattam, Oyilattam, Silambattam, and few children even performed the famous Tamil Martial arts – Vaal Veechu on the stage.

Folk Dancers are entering the temple with Nadaswaram playing loud in the background.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

The Poi Kal kudurai folk dancers in Sholavandan, Madurai. PC: Vijaya Shankar O

Folk dancers performing on the stage in Sholavandan, Madurai. PC: Vijaya Shankar O

Foreigners are happily dancing with the folk performers on stage, Sholavandan, Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

When the performance was going on, the members of the temple felicitated the foreigners and they even came on stage, dancing with the performers and enjoying its form. It was so bright and fun to watch all the cultural aspects and its richness being spread across people with diversity.

A priest in the Temple is facilitating a foreigner at the Sholavandan Temple, Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

On the outside of the temple, it was heavily crowded with people lighting the deepam’s and waiting for a blessing from god. It was 11:00 am when we left from there and was traveling on the car and suddenly stopped at a place where a huge dump of waste materials being burned out and over the other side of the road, right opposite to it, was a group of villagers playing a game of who will break the pot which is being hung at a certain height. It is a kind-of fun game played across villages on this occasion and after seeing that, we reach back home.

Devotees are lighting up deepam's outside the Temple's premise, Sholavandan, Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

A group of Village people are playing the sport of Uri Adithal near Sholavandan, Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

The next day was Mattu Pongal, we went to Mellur to shoot the sport of Manju virattu which is similar to Jallikattu but in a conduct in a free area. I saw villagers catling the bulls in the road and in the nearby temple, I saw villagers preparing Pongal in the hot sun. When we walked into a village, a few miles in, we saw a lot of people standing outside and carrying out bundles for the Manju virattu sport. Walking with them, we reached the arena where a lot of bull owners were preparing their own bulls for the sport which was decorated with clothes and jingles. When a few minutes later, the bundles were put in and the sport has begun. The Villagers from every arena were cautious as well as excited in watching who will catch the bull and which one. After few hours, the sport was done and the prize winners were given bundles and some cash amount as well.

A group of Village are carrying the bundles of clothes at Melur for the sport Manju virattal.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

Villagers at Mellur are standing near a temple to get the blessing from God for being the Manju Virattal sport. 
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

A dozen of bull owners are standing with their bulls for Manju virattal sport in the arena.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

Two participants are chasing to catch the bull for the Manju virattal sport.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

On the next day, it was Kannum Pongal, we, as in my father and me decided to go to Alanganallur’s Jallikattu which is a very famous sport occurs every year on the occasion of Pongal. Okay, Shooting Jallikattu was way harder for me, as we had to buy tickets and reach the spot by 7 am itself. Reaching at the spot at the right time and all was okay, but we weren’t actually allowed to go in when we reached there as it was way too much crowded and they said that our seats were pre-booked. I guessed that it was because some official members entered in, so we neglected the issue and sat till 11:00 am and got the ticket in the VVIP section where we were allowed to see the sport with the foreigners.



A man has caught the hood of a bull at Alanganallur Jallikattu.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

Audience for the Alanganallur Jallikattu at Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

I haven’t seen Jallikattu at all and seeing now was some kind of fun, the traditional sport is said to be practiced during the Tamil Classical period and was common among the Ayar people lived in the “Mullai” geographical division of the ancient TN. It also said to help in breeding the bulls and in showcasing the tradition of Madurai all over the world. I caught few pictures of a man catching the bull’s back a few times and it was all about timing to frame and shoot. I really enjoyed watching the sport play in front of me and with people nearby cheering and clapping when someone catches the bull.

Then, while coming back, I went to see the sugarcane fields in the villages of Alanganallur and into a person’s home where he with two other people were painting the small pots and making it decorative.

Sugarcane fields at a village in Alanganallur, Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

Utensils used by the villagers at Alanganallur, Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

A man is decorating small pots at a village in Alanganallur, Madurai.
PC: Vijaya Shankar O

After all of that, we left back to home and came back to Chennai from Madurai’s Railway station on the same Teja Express.

For me, seeing the occasion of the Pongal festival in Madurai was just an amazing experience, I got everything covered on camera which when looked back, bring all those travel memories to me. Seeing the various type of events and sports enriched my knowledge about the festival and its essence in the city of Madurai. From the culture they follow to the events that happened over the 4 days was an exhilarating experience to have seen it live and on traveling back in train from Chennai to Madurai, I saw the sun setting in the paddy fields which set my mood and mind for me to visit this beautiful city again.

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